



1. The large market with its stall selling babushka bags and plastic shopping bags.
2. Wall with Soviet-era mosaic tiles near our apartment.
3. Phil swinging Ana around and around. She loves to feel dizzy.
4. Phil and Ana playing a game of "Where's Ana" on the slide.
5. Ana reaching into Phil's laptop bag for a toy.
[Phil]
So today we really wanted to sleep in since actual East European fall has hit here in all its gray and chilly glory. We somehow roused ourselves and trudged over to the orphanage, sneezing and blowing our noses the whole time. Once there, we found all of Ana's group out for a walk and bundled up in ski jackets and toboggans. We got to spend about half an hour with her playing the "Where's Nastya?" game before the caregivers called them in for lunch.
[Robin]
I practically begged Phil to trudge up (the opposite direction from the orphange) to the coffee cafe this morning before going the orphanage. I just couldn't make it without a latte in hand. I should note here that a "large" at the cafe is a "short' at Starbucks, etc. It will make you want to pretend that you are getting another one for someone else just so you can have two.
We walked to the pizza place and then to the large market after the orphanage. There were lots of people out, all carrying their plastic bags. This is an interesting situation. If you want to look like a Ukrainian you must carry a labeled plastic shopping bag filled with your personal belongings. This goes for both men and women. They even sell plastic shopping bags at the marketplace. I took a picture (see above) to illustrate this point. I guess this is a type of status symbol--i.e. that you have the means to buy something in a store.
[Phil]
I think it's more just a utilitarian thing, but it's definitely true that most Ukrainians carry their stuff in plastic bags. And those that don't are very protective of their leather or canvas bags. The way to even partially fit in here is to get one of those "Scotch Whisky" bags from the local gastronom and put all your stuff in it. The Ukrainians will still spot you as a foreigner, because they have a sixth sense for that, but you'll blend in better.
[Robin]
Colleen was laughing about how she/we assume we are like the My Cousin Vinny movie where Marissa Tormei's character says, "I blend". I think this comes after she and Joe Pesci are in a diner and order a "grit".
At the markplace, we successfully tracked down the stall/staff where we had purchased some pants for Ana. They were way too big, probably three inches in length. Phil talked to the ladies and they remembered us and allowed us to exchange them for some smaller pants, without as much as a receipt and having the tags off. There are some great things about Ukrainian and their people-to-people customer/client relationships are definitely one of them.
[Phil]
Yes, I have never seen anyone so happy to take a return. It was pretty great. Then we went to a stall that had all these awesome Puma shoes, but unfortunately none of the cool (i.e., pink) ones fit Robin. Then I searched around for a "Ukraine"warm-up jacket or something like that but had no luck. Maybe in Kyiv... Anyway, after the market, we went to inspect a possible apartment to move into. It really wasn't what we were looking for, so we called Colleen in Kyiv and all agreed to share her Apartment Palace. It will save us all money, and plus we'll get to hang out with a fellow countryman. We all three could not be happier. All we need now is a coffee shop next door.
[Robin]
I don't want to whitewash this--I could not see sleeping in that apartment. Phil had the unpleasant task of having to call the owner of the apartment we had viewed and tell her that we had a change of heart. This was hard to do, especially in another language.
[Phil]
Yes, it was pretty awful. Let us never speak of it again.
In other news, we got some Russian mp3 CD's at the market today, so be prepared for horrible techno-pop emanating from our house when we return. As soon as possible, we're going to turn Ana on to The Pernice Brothers, Otis Redding, Van Morrison, Spoon, etc.
[Robin]
When we went to the orphanage this afternoon a new caregiver was giving the children in Ana's group a walk through the park. We interrupted their walk and this incited some tears from Ana. Suffice to say we tried a number of approaches and we got varying results from her. We think it is very confusing to her to want to be going somewhere with us and also want to be with the comfort of her group. Regardless of this trauma, Dasha can't wait for us to be around and give her attention. We gave her a Tarheel key chain that plays the UNC fight song. She loved it.
After the orphanage, we went to the Ukranian restaurant across the street. There was a large engagement party there and the various members of the party took turns having a professional photographer take pictures of them with what looked like a potted flowering plant. We had a good dinner but were unhappily surprised by the charge. Including the "entertainment fee" the singer it ended up being more than we had in our pockets. We had the option of dining and dashing, but figured we might want our coats which were being held hostage by the doorwoman. Phil had to run up the street to the ATM while I sat at the table trying to look inconspicous.
[Phil]
So tromorrow is Dasha's last day at "Gaidok" and the first day of our week remaining to take Ana to America. Think good thoughts for us and for Dasha, Ana, etc.

5 comments:
Well, you know how excited I am for Dasha. I'm sure she will be very happy, but it will be a big change for her.
Funny you said that fall had arrived, as soon as I saw the new photos, I noticed there were fallen leaves everywhere. It's definitely time for you to get out of there!!!!
I went through a huge number of lattes in Kramatorsk, I refrained from ordering two at once though!!! You never know, Starbucks may make it there eventually.....
Those bloody plastic bags, you're right, they are EVERYWHERE
Please take some final pictures of Dasha that I can post on my blog....
Phil- I'm so sorry about the apartment trauma...after this I also will never speak of it again! ;)
How nice that Colleen and you two have a way to share her Palace. I bet it makes you feel less isolated to have her around, and I'm sure having you two to talk to is wonderful for her! You need to take a couple pictures of the new place to show us.
Hope you get over those colds...
-Suzi
Congratulations Phil and Robin! I hadn't tuned in to the blog for a few days, and now I see the good news! I'm very happy for both of you.
Addendum: I should have said, I'm very happy for all three of you! And Lola too!
Hurrah!! You are at the finish line. We cannot wait to see all three of you. Very soon. Isabel sends her love!
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